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Polvanera dates only from 2003, when Filippo Cassano bought his first vineyards in the highest part of Puglia, Gioia del Colle, half an hour’s drive inland west of Bari, and rented two small vineyards planted with 60-year-old bush vines; and while his original intent was to specialize in growing and making Primitivo, he also produces two white wines from Falanghina and Minutolo and an Aglianico, made entirely in stainless steel. The name Polvanera derives from the dark brown/ black soil that surrounds the winery, which is built in a restored eighteenth-century historic “masseria” or farmhouse. The farm comprises 125 acres of organically farmed vineyards, certified since 2008. But here is the wine showcasing Cassano’s grape of choice, Primitivo: done entirely in stainless steel, it is bright and elegant, flavorful and balanced, with hints of red berries and violets.
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